Inside Demna’s Gucciverse: How Fashion’s Restless Disrupter Is Reinvigorating the Global Mega-Brand

Backstage before his inaugural show, Demna Gvasalia navigates the bustling lineup of models. He shares a feeling akin to falling in love, admitting to being overwhelmed by details like shoes and sweat but choosing not to dwell on what he cannot control, referencing a quote he once read.

The fashion show took place in Milan's Palazzo delle Scintille, a venue transformed by Demna into a representation of Gucci's spirit. Inspired by Florence's Uffizi Galleries, he commissioned replicas of classical statues to adorn the hall, which descended in tiers to a central runway. Demna envisioned the event as a way to re-establish Gucci within the context of the Italian Renaissance, while also ensuring a star-studded guest list, noted by an observer for the abundance of supermodels.

The cast featured prominent figures like Kate Moss and Karlie Kloss, alongside unexpected participants such as rappers Fakemink and Nettspend, whom Demna stated he had always wished to meet.

As the lights dimmed, a spotlight illuminated the runway. Model Charlie Jones opened the show in a form-fitting white sleeveless dress and a classic black Gucci bag, subtly showcasing a thigh tattoo. Demna reflected on this as his most body-conscious moment, attributing his newfound self-acceptance to a decade of therapy. Jones, a transgender man, was followed by a muscular man in matching white attire. The collection, consistent with Demna's approach at Gucci, featured a blend of men's and women's wear. He expressed his belief that gendered fashion is an outdated concept with systemic flaws. The appearance of the muscular model drew an exclamation of admiration from the audience.

Diverging from his more provocative Balenciaga presentations, Demna's Gucci show embraced romanticism. Sequined dresses and barefoot male models evoked Botticelli's art, as Demna described it. He aimed to explore a different, more exaggerated yet classic form of beauty. The finale featured Kate Moss in a backless sequined black dress, met with enthusiastic cheers, signifying a revival of an iconic aesthetic.

Demna's life has been shaped by displacement and significant historical events. His family fled their Georgian hometown of Sukhumi in 1993 due to ethnic cleansing, settling in Tbilisi. At 17, he worked as a translator for Georgian TV, covering news like the September 11th attacks. His nomadic lifestyle has been a constant throughout his career.